Spotlight Series: Studio Visit with Artist and Photographer Kevin Claiborne

For the December feature for “Spotlight Series” I had the pleasure of getting to spend some time with Kevin Claiborne. I met Kevin earlier this year at the opening of Vaughn Spann’s exhibition at Almine Rech snd have been following him ever since. Kevin is an artist and photographer currently based in New York City. After I saw his show this Fall at Thierry Goldberg gallery, BLACK ENOUGH. I wrote about my experience with the exhibition on my weekly favorites in November if you want to know more about that exhibition. Kevin was kind enough to invite me to his studio to get to see what he is currently working on, his wonderful film camera collection and get some more insight into his world. I hope you all enjoy this month’s feature and make sure to see how we collaborated on Instagram!

Oil and Threads: How and where did your love for photography begin? Was there a moment in your life where you gravitated towards the camera?

Kevin Claiborne: I have been interested in photography for many years and cannot remember an exact moment where it became a love. I remember I would shoot pictures while at social events and on vacations because my memory was terrible. Once I started shooting film years ago, I got more passionate about photography as an art form, creative outlet, and mode of expression. Finding vintage cameras to use also became an exciting part of the process as well. Developing a bond with old, fragile tools, and spending time learning how to be intentional about capturing and creating images truly helped my practice.

O&T :This past fall you had a solo show at Thierry Goldberg gallery in the LES, which was a beautiful presentation of your photographs that you took earlier this year at Joshua Tree, with questions and ideas silk screened onto them, along with three sculptures and a video piece. From Instagram, I enjoyed seeing how much time you spent at the gallery while your show was up and interacting with the viewer and getting to spend time with the audience. Many artists don't usually revisit their shows often after the opening day, what made you decide to spend time at the gallery and interact with your viewers? What was one of your biggest takeaways from this experience?

KC:
I was interested in seeing my friends and family attend the show and to thank them in person for their support, and I also wanted to observe the ways in which people experienced the work. I was curious to see which works people were drawn to, how long they spent in the space, how much time they spent with the pieces, and which ones they. I also wanted to attend in person to be available to answer questions or offer additional dialogue to viewers about how the works function as a collective body. I enjoyed being able to serve as a resource to the people who took their time to visit the gallery. One of my biggest takeaways from my experience was to always consider the relationship between the commercial aspect of a gallery setting and the content of the works, and challenge myself in my approach to creating an experience where the “work” extends beyond the objects, beyond the walls, beyond physical space(s). I also was reminded that it is okay if your work is not easily understood.

O&T: At your studio, we spoke about the idea of creating an identity and story within one's work, and the idea of how much does one give to their viewer? This idea has been something I have been thinking about since, and why I decided to select the works of Thornton Dial to style for you to photograph, as I was able to get an insight into his life through the works but he didn't feed it directly to his audience, it took time with the work and some prior knowledge of Dial. Moving forward with this new body of collage based works and incorporating your family's story and text, how much do you want to give? As well, ideally what would you want your audience to learn from you?

KC:
With my collage works, I am interested in playing with the ways we read images and text when there is no immediately discernible narrative. With the act of layering and altering legibility, I hope that there are new histories that arise from the work. I have been very invested in “gaps in histories”, much like the Great Unconformity in geology, and looking into similar gaps in my own family history. While digging into my family photo archive and history, I am exploring and learning so much about myself and my engagement with “truth” as a concept. I am not sure how much I want to reveal or share in terms of specific details, but I hope there is a connection with others about the universal function of families (the ones we are born into and the ones we choose).

O&T: I had the pleasure of getting to work with you and shoot three different works with you recently. I can't wait to share the images along with this interview, I loved how playful the shoot was and felt very comfortable shooting with you which is not always the case the first time around. What is your approach when it comes to shoots that are planned versus shooting while you are out and about? Are there any inspirations or other creatives that you admire and bring into your process?

KC:
When shoots are planned, it’s important for me to do what feels natural and necessary in the moment, and when people are able to feel most comfortable, I like to lean into that. When I shoot my friends, I try to make sure they’re able to fully be themselves and then I just try to disappear and capture them as best I can. It’s always easier when people let their guard down and stop trying to “be” something or someone else. When I’m shooting street photography, it depends on my mood. When I’m protesting, sometimes the camera is secondary to my protest. Sometimes I take a more active approach. I shoot what I naturally gravitate towards and try not to think too much. I shoot the communities and people and environments I care about most, and hope that my love and passion come through in the images. I also rarely show my photographs, so most of what I shoot is just for me to see. I mainly get inspiration through just being outside in the street, walking around getting fresh air. I feel like I’m always inspired but not always in the mood to use the inspiration to create something. Instagram is also a great tool for inspiration, but it’s easy to get lost in everyone else’s highlight reel. I prefer to focus on my own voice.

O&T: As this is a place about the love of Fashion and Art, could you tell me a little bit about your personal style? Who are some of your favorite designers?

KC: I’ve been wearing all black for many years now, mainly because it’s my favorite color, but it’s probably because I’m lazy. I don’t like logos on my clothes, and I choose to buy things that I feel are quality pieces that will last a long time. I used to shop way too much when I was younger, and now, not so much. A designer/brand I’ve been watching for a while is Pyer Moss. I appreciate what the entire team has been creating and they are truly a cultural gem.

Spotlight Series: Men's Fashion Editor and Stylist Sebastian Jean

This month I had the privilege of speaking with New York Native, Sebastian Jean. Sebastian is a freelance Stylist and Men’s Fashion Editor at Office Magazine. I was introduced to Sebastian by some mutual friends in New York, and I have to be honest from his Instagram bio I knew I was sold on his style. The bio reads ”‘mister mix the prada with the uniqlo’ 🏄🏾”, which stood out to me. To me true style is how you are able to create a look with what you have,and not let the clothing or label dictate your style or wear you; true style is how you combine a mixture of things which he does impeccably . I spoke to Sebastian about his approach to styling, to what some of his personal favorite pieces, and he gave a great insight on how to think about designers and the brands they design for. I can’t wait to see what is next for Sebastian, from new feature editorials to the launching of his own brand. To follow this feature, this week on my Instagram I will be styling three outfits off of pieces of art that Sebastian selected himself so make sure to check that out!

I hope you all enjoy this month’s Spotlight Series and make sure to follow Sebastian on Instagram at @sebjective.

Audrey-Anna Oliveros: Could you tell us how you started your career in the fashion world?

Sebastian Jean: I got my first industry fashion gig working as an intern in the Calvin Klein fashion office. This was during my senior year in college and just a month or so after Raf Simons joined Calvin Klein as creative director. It was a super interesting time to be there, everyone was excited to see what he had in store for the brand and it was wild to be 21 years old and in the same creative space as Raf. My claim to fashion fame was handing him his coffee once, I still have the post-it note with his order on it. Following that internship and graduating from college, I spent that summer assisting stylists Melanie Ward and Simon Rasmussen, while also interning at OFFICE MAGAZINE. By the end of that summer, Simon had made me his first assistant and gave me a title at the magazine. I've been cooking with my fashion family there ever since, as well as venturing into my own freelance adventures. 

AAO: Who are some of your favorite designers at the moment, and why?

SJ: I’ve been thinking about this question differently. It’s easy for me to rattle off names that I like, but I’m not sure that I do have any favorite designers. I have favorite brands and I have favorite collections, but I’m reassessing the role that the designer plays in this consideration of preference and comparison. We know designers are credited with creating collections, but what happens when your “favorite” designer says something stupid? Does that one fall collection that you’ve known and loved become irrelevant overnight? Do you toss out that favorite pair of shorts you paid $395 dollars for? The people we revere are not without fault. As a Kanye West stan, this is something that I know all too well, (speaking to separating the individual from the art). And while it’s commonplace to regard a designer as an artist, just as you would a painter or a dancer, I find that the way a designer’s art reaches the people has a divergent route to its distribution. That analysis aside, I like Prada, Comme des Garçons, Rick Owens, and Dries Van Noten to name some. Those brands are very functional and versatile to me. They elevate the regular and haven’t said or done that many stupid things.

AAO: Recently you styled a feature and the cover shot for April's issue of Cultured Magazine. In the spread, you were styling with the designs of Kim Jones for Dior Homme. Some of the things that I loved from that shoot were that you styled a woman in clothing that is marketed to men, which I think will be the future for most fashion houses. Considering a house like Gucci, who will be moving forward with creating collections that are not gender biased, it is something that I think we will see more of in styling. I also liked with your styling you made each outfit feel easy and approachable, from the way you styled the garments to the way the photos were shot. Everything felt like it was on the move and almost imperfect, which is the reality for all of us nothing is ever as staged as the pictures we take! This being said, as a stylist what are some of the decisions and thoughts you have when pulling for shoots, and what is one thing you want the viewers to takeaway from your styled creations?

SJ: As a stylist, I think one of the most important considerations before the clothes is the photographer. Gogy Esparza, the photographer who brought me onto the Cultured Magazine production, is so good at what you recognized from the images, “everything felt like it was on the move and almost imperfect.” Gogy has an eye for the elements around us that often go unnoticed. He’s the type of individual to walk past a Chinese food restaurant at 3AM in the LES and find something captivating in the illuminated awning or the fraying away phone number decal on the storefront window. This Pre-Fall 19 Dior Men’s collection wasn’t one that I was particularly excited about, or at least from how it was presented at the show, but when we got in the room with the pieces and the talent, we began to unravel moments that brought the collection to life for us and the story that we wanted to tell. This is where a challenging collection becomes fun, by pushing you to find something that you didn't see in it before. 9/10 I’m working with pieces I’ve only seen via my computer screen, and even in cases where I’ve attended the runway show, nothing compares to being in the room with the clothes on a rack and having the opportunity to fit them on the body. Often, a production and working with a collection feels like a mystery you're trying to solve, but the catch is that there’s more than one way to solve it, and most people will solve it differently. When people see my work, I want them to see and experience my conclusion to the mystery, but also imagine and develop their own. 

AAO: What are your top three favorite pieces in your wardrobe, and why do they get that coveted spot? (Items pictured in order below)

SJ: 1- Paradise Found Vintage Hawaiian Shirt, white with palm trees and pink flamingos. One of the strongest criteria for vintage garments for me is when a piece looks designer, but isn’t. This Hawaiian shirt could easily be from Prada’s A/W16 collection, but it’s a $30 shirt that I got on Grailed. I love a come-up. 

2 - Martine Rose S/S17 striped button-up. I like playing with different archetypes, especially those where the typical character doesn’t look like me. It’s fun to explore what a CEO, hiker, or Hamptons vacationer looks like traditionally, and then seeing how I can fuck it up. Martine is great at tastefully satirizing traditional elements. Many of her pieces, like this shirt, are great because I can walk into certain spaces and play the part, but also maintain my flavor. 

3- 424 Fairfax black leather pants. These leather pants are so solid because they’re cut like relaxed-fit denim, so it’s not a battle to get them on or off. I do need to get them tailored, but a shoelace belt has been doing the trick. 

AAO: After researching some of the features and interviews you have been involved in at Office Magazine, many are with artists such as Lucia Hierro, Anthony Akinbola and fashion editing for Reginald Sylvester II; that along with your position as a curatorial assistant at the Neuberger Museum, I think it is safe to say you have a deep appreciation for both art and fashion. How would you describe the relationship between art and fashion?

SJ: I could never really draw or paint, not even in an abstract sense. However, through clothing, I’ve always been able to assemble the structure of a work of art via what I’m wearing or putting on someone else. A lot of the time, I don’t even have to be wearing the item of clothing, it could just be laying on a particular chair that I like and that serves a purpose for me. Since I first started dressing, I’ve learned to understand and use clothing in the context of a “piece,” like you would a piece of art or a piece of furniture. This mindset guides me in seeing the fashion items I own not just as things to wear, but things that affect and interact with the space around me. In many cases, I’ll be looking to purchase a piece of clothing and I’ll think about how it will look on me and how it will look draped over the back of my favorite chair, both considerations are of equal importance to me. I’ll also often leave a pair of sneakers out in plain sight because I appreciate what the color and silhouette contributes to my environment. I think where clothing and art come together for me is that that they both allow me to shape my environment, transcend time, and participate in a conversation that’s nonverbal.

AAO: Can you share some of your favorite artists, and if there is a dream work of art you would want to live with in your home?

SJ: I’ve found inspiration and intrigue in the works of Kerry James Marshall, Noah Davis, Cy Twombly, Diana Lawson, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Francis Picabia, Stanley Whitney, Helmut Newton, Fred Wilson, David Hammons, Aya Brown, Henri Matisse, and many more. There was a dream work of art that I wanted to live with in my home, but Diddy beat me to it. 

AAO: What can we see next from you?
SJ
: AVOIR is coming out of the gate slowly, but surely. Will let you know what we’re up to as things progress!

Spotlight Series: Telsha Anderson of T.A.

This past summer I visited T.A. which is a concept store in the Meatpacking district of New York City, and met Telsha Anderson during my visit. I was so drawn to the way she curated the store, how everything was placed with purpose and all worked so well off of each other. I started chatting with her, and I was very impressed with how she took the time to work with me and help me locate a piece of clothing which wasn't available at the moment. When I started thinking about this series for my website, I thought about how I would want to debut it and Telsha came to mind as I loved how she approached fashion and her store. I believe she will be part of the change that the retail industry needs and will teach and encourage consumers to be more intentional with purchasing as she did with her store.

I am so honored that I was able to interview Telsha and that she is how I am introducing "Spotlight Series". To honor this feature, this week on Instagram I will be styling a pair of Barragan pants I bought from her store so make sure to look out for that. I hope you all enjoy it and if you are in New York check out her incredible store and if not, go to her website and have some fun!

Enjoy the interview:

Firstly, I would like to say I am an admirer of the ambiance you have created in T.A. all the clothing is placed so well together in the different sections of the store, and I am impressed by the curation of different brands. Two that stood out to me were Barragan and PH5 when I first visited, as those are brands I have only gotten to interact with through Instagram.

Audrey- Anna Oliveros - That being said, what are some of your favorite ways to discover new brands, and how do you determine if they are a good fit for T.A.?

Telsha Anderson - Research! Research! Research! I spend a lot of time on Instagram, Tumblr, Vogue, and other media outlets that represent or visually showcase new brands or people. I also do a ton of market research with peers in the industry. I ask peers questions pertaining to what they’re looking for in a brand, boutique, and retail experience. Those three questions, help determine what direction to move forward in regard to our brand matrix. 

 AAO- In your interview with Naomi Elizee on her Podcast "So...What do you do again?" you mentioned that you traveled to Paris two weeks after signing your lease for T.A. On that trip to Paris visiting showrooms, were there specific brands you knew you wanted to carry in the store, and if so which ones and why?

T.A - Prior to opening, I wanted to carry Situationist, Ellery, and Ottolinger. Mainly because they’re brands that often aren’t seen in retailers. The exciting thing about t.a., is that there are brands that are based overseas that often aren’t available in New York for their audiences to try-on and at t.a., they have the opportunity to do so.

AAO - As many brands are starting to move away from creating more collections such as Pre-Fall and Cruise/Resort as the demand and market has shifted, do you think this will make shoppers more conscious of making purchases that can become trans-seasonal? If so, what is important to you when buying for the store with this in mind?

T.A - Intentional buying is definitely on the horizon. I believe that as retailers shift their buying habits alongside the shift consumers are undertaking, brands will follow. It’s exciting to see brands reallocate their resources towards other parts of the brands since they aren’t participating in Pre-Fall or Resort. The shift that’s currently occurring within the fashion industry is new and exciting. It’s always important for any industry to adapt toward something new – that’s when innovation is at its best and when creativity can truly flourish beyond “the now.” 

AAO - I am a big fan of your personal style and how you are not afraid of bold pieces, especially with pants! What is your approach to creating outfits when getting dressed?

I personally dress form the bottom up! I start with my shoes and ultimately, when I have going on that day, the day dictates the shoes. Since my shoes are often times the muted element in my outfits, I’m able to play more with a staple top or pair of pants.

AAO - What are three items in the store right now that you think every fashion lover should be aware of?

·      PrsicaVERA printed pants

·      ASHYA “Sheema Slingback Bag” 

·      The entire (upcoming) Beaufille FW20 collection

AAO - As OilandThreads is a website dedicated to the love of both Fashion and Art, it is only fitting I ask.. who are some of your favorite artists?

I’m currently obsessed with Hannah Polskin

Make sure to follow Telsha, and check out her store!
@t.a.newyork and https://shop-ta.com/